The Only National Park in the NorthEast

We have had enjoyable experiences at National Parks in the west such as Grand Canyon, Great Basin, Glacier, Rocky Mountain and Sequoia so we are hoping that the only National Park in the northeast, Acadia, will be a good experience as well. We scheduled some time on the “quiet side” of the park, the Schoodic Peninsula and also some time in the main area, Mount Desert Island.  Schoodic was very nice, we had a couple great weather days, cool and sunny.  Campground was new, had big sites, hookups, great bathrooms but no showers.  It was very quiet.  We were able to hike across the peninsula and catch the bus back to camp.  Saw the wild blueberries above on our hike. You can catch the bus to a small village called Winter Harbor where you can get ice cream.  Not much else in town except a ferry to Bar Harbor, a five and dime, a library which is only open one day a week and a lobster co-op.  Funny, when I hear the word “co-op” in a town I think surely it is a place that sells fruits and vegetables, not in Maine, here everything is about lobster, lobster, lobster.

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View From Our hike on the Schoodic Penisula

Tim decided to get the bikes out and we had a great ride around the park.  Roads are smooth and there is a big section where it is two lanes going one way, so the cars have plenty of room to go around.  Everything was going great until we got back to the campground and were just looping around the roads when Tim’s chain fell off the chain ring, going uphill, he couldn’t get the chain to catch and couldn’t unclip and ended up going down.  Well his wrist was hurting and swollen, the same one he broke a few years ago.  We decide we should go to the “big city” and get an x-ray just in case it is broken again.  This leaves me to get the bikes apart and back into the van.  Wow, what an ordeal.  At least Tim was coherent and able to give me instructions but it was very difficult.  Front wheels and seats come off. Wheels go into their special bags after the spindle is taken out.  Bikes have to be put in a certain way to get close together and take up the least amount of space, which means the pedals have to be in a certain place, the handlebars keep getting hooked on each other.  And the front forks have to clamp into their preset holders. Wow, to me this setup really does not seem workable at all, but that’s another discussion. We make it to the urgent care place before closing, they take the x-ray and the PA says she does not see a break but it will be examined by the radiologist to be sure.  They put a wrist brace on and send him on his way.  So now, no more biking for a while.  Also we are finding most of the hiking here in the east requires using your hands to climb over rocks, so that would be difficult with a bum wrist as well.

On to Mount Desert Island.  Campground is not as nice, sites are close, no hookups, no cell phone/internet service, bathrooms are not bad but have no showers.   We did go to the last evening program of the season in the campground which was about bats.  Apparently bat numbers at Acadia have been dwindling and they are not sure why.  The last few years they have been studying and tagging bats here.

There is a free bus that goes into the town of Bar Harbor which is a busy tourist town with restaurants, shops, boat trips, bus trips.  At least there is cell phone service there.  With rainy days here we find ourselves getting on the bus to go into town just so we can use the internet on our phones, pathetic. And who can resist the cupcake store when you are depressed?  Oh and did I mention everything is wet?  It has been rainy and humid, no hookups means we cannot run the dehumidifier in the van, it would take too much power.  There is no sun for the solar panels to recharge the batteries.  Sheets, clothes and bodies, damp.  The floor in the bathroom at the campground has been wet for days, I am not sure why, it is indoors, why is it wet all the time?  A new element here by the ocean, fog!  There was a cruise ship in Bar Harbor blowing its fog horn, that was interesting.

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Cruise ship in the fog in Bar Harbor
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Lots of Fog

The last day we had nice weather.  The highlight at Acadia was definitely hiking Cadillac Mountain which is the highest point on the eastern seaboard.  The trail is really not very difficult at all, it is rated moderate.  We were able to leave from the campground, hike up one side to the top then hike down the other side and catch the bus back to camp.  All worked out great.

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At the top of Cadillac Mountain
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When we got to the top we saw all the people who drove up Cadillac Mountain

Vermont and New Hampshire

Burlington, Vermont

After leaving the Adirondacks of New York state we continued east and just on the other side of Lake Champlain is the biggest city in Vermont by population. So what town are all these people gravitating to? Burlington, Vermont of course, population 42,000!  More and more we are finding ourselves gravitating toward civilized areas.  We enjoy having things like internet, public transportation and restaurants with vegetarian food and craft beer.  Burlington delivered on all of this, too bad it was a little too hot there for living in a van, high 80s and high humidity. We stayed in a town beach park which has camping as well.  The beach is on Lake Champlain and there is a bike/pedestrian path that runs right through the park to downtown, and also a city bus that picks up not far from camp at Burlington High School.  Campground location was great but the bathrooms and showers certainly left something to be desired.  We walked the mile and a half into town, did some shopping, had some food and beer and took the bus back to camp.  If I had to live in New England, I think I could live in Burlington.

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Church Street, Pedestrians Only, Burlington, VT
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Our Van on the Left, Camping at North Beach Park, Burlington, VT
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North Beach, Burlington, VT

White Mountains of New Hampshire

On to New Hampshire.  Growing up in Connecticut my parents had a vacation home in the White Mountains of New Hampshire which I spent many a weekend at before they sold it. Since we were passing through the area I was eager to see if I could find the house.  I did find it and my first reaction was that I couldn’t believe it was the same color.  I always thought the colors were ugly – gold with burgundy trim – and it looked the same 40 years later!  However, the whole area is now very wooded with overgrown trees everywhere.  I remember it being more wide open.  Just as we are driving our big silver van down this dead end dirt road in the middle of nowhere, New Hampshire, a lady comes out on the front porch of the house and decides she is going to set a spell.  Feeling awkward, I turned the big van around as fast as I could and I did not get a picture of the house.

In New Hampshire we stayed in Franconia Notch State Park.  We managed to get one short hike in which went to one of the huts that is managed by the Appalachian Mountain Club.  The Appalachian Trail passes through the area and the club manages huts where through hikers can stay overnight, have dinner and breakfast and be on their way.  I saw these same types of huts in France when I was hiking in the Alps.  There is certainly a lot of hiking in this area of New Hampshire, but as always we are limited to a few days and are hampered by the weather among other things.

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Lonesome Lake AMC Hut
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Dorms at AMC Hut

Mount Washington

Since we are in New Hampshire one thing we wanted to do is ride the cog railway to the top of Mount Washington, the highest mountain east of the Mississippi at 6,288 ft.  Amazing how low these elevation numbers are compared to the west.  What is not low is the cost of the cog railway at $70 per person. But when will we ever be in NH again?  At this rate I would bet on never.  I have a childhood memory of being on top of Mount Washington and all I remember is it being white, cold and windy.  Tim and I tried to pick the best day where there may be some clearing, so maybe we could see something but it ended up being the same as my memory, white, cold and windy.  They say average wind speed on Mount Washington is about 50 MPH and that is what it was the day we went.  The highest wind speed recorded anywhere in the world observed by a person was on Mount Washington in 1934 at 231 MPH!  It is certainly a strange place to experience.

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Cog Railway at the Bottom
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Could not see any of the mountains from the top
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Old Weather Station on Top of Mount Washington

Next up is the only National Park in New England, Acadia National Park in Maine.

Searching for Coolness in the Adirondacks

After sweating it out across the Midwest in August all I wanted was to be cool.  The heat, humidity and mosquitoes of North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Indiana, it was all just too much to take without AC in the van.  There was no escaping all the wetness.  The water bottles were sweating all the time, the clothes, the sheets just felt wet.  Tim did buy us a small dehumidifier which does help but to get it to work you have to close all the windows and that is not really practical when it is hot outside.   Exhausted and knowing we had to keep moving east because we have plans to see family and also plans to see the Great Smokey Mountains in the fall, I looked at the map in my Weatherbug app and saw that the closest place where there is a pocket of coolness is the Adirondack Mountains of upstate New York.  Even though we both grew up in Connecticut neither one of us was familiar with the Adirondacks aside from my vague recollection of a trip to Lake George when I was a child.  Looking at the tourist websites, Lake Placid sounds familiar, think Winter Olympics, think skiing, think mountains, sounds good! However, there is no camping in Lake Placid, it is now a busy tourist town.  The closest camping is about 10 miles away in Wilmington, NY.  We set our sights on the North Pole Campground.  We thought about stopping at Niagara Falls but in the end we decided that it is not something either one of us is really excited about seeing so we do not bother.  Tim wanted to check out his childhood home where he lived only until age four in small town upstate NY.  He had an amazing recollection of where the house was located and other structures in the neighborhood.

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Tiny Dehumidifier

Hiking

Hiking in the Adirondacks is all about the rocks, the mud and the crazy tree roots that look like they may come alive and wrap themselves around your ankle at any moment, very different from the desert hiking I know and love.  Here, there are no switchbacks, the trails go straight up the mountain. We completed two hikes while we were there, the Flume Knob and Whiteface Mountain.  We prefer to walk to hiking trails right out of our campsite rather than packing up the van, unplugging, taking the window covering off, spinning the seats back to forward facing position and driving somewhere.  Also parking the van at trailheads can be difficult since it is 22’ 9” long.  We walked 1.5 miles each way to the Flume Knob trail, which was only a four mile RT hike, so about 7 miles all together.  Relatively steep, straight up the hill, nice views.  The second hike, Whiteface Mountain was VERY challenging.  We were able to start walking right out of the campground and it eventually connected to a trail that goes up Whiteface, which is the 5th highest mountain in NY at 4,865 feet.  This elevation pales in comparison to some mountains I have hiked in the west, but that has no bearing on the difficulty of the hike, this was tough, very steep, endless rocks with scrambling.  There is a road that you can PAY to drive up the mountain but when you are hiking and the road is open, you are not allowed to even walk on the road.  There is one part where the trail comes out on the road but you just have to climb up some rocks to stay on the trail, don’t walk on the road!

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View from Flume Knob
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Trail up Whiteface

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Arrows painted on rocks telling you where you are supposed to go
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The road you are not allowed to walk on unless you pay!

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View of Lake Placid  (the Lake, not the town) from Whiteface

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Lake Placid

I did not realize Lake Placid was not only home to one Winter Olympics in 1980, but actually hosted the event in 1932 as well.  Also, the town of Lake Placid, a busy little tourist town with shops and restaurants, is not actually on the LAKE of Lake Placid, imagine that?  There is a lake in town, but it is Mirror Lake.  While in town we wandered into the Olympic Ice skating rink. Turns out there are two rinks in the building, one from the 1932 games and one from 1980.  In our ongoing quest for coolness we decide to sit in the stands at the 1932 rink for a while and catch some cool air off the ice.  Just so happens they have “Freaky Friday” ice skating competitions during the summer and one is about to start.  It only lasted 10 minutes and contestants were mostly young girls but nice to see they are pursuing something.

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1932 Rink
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1980 Rink

North Pole

In Wilmington we stayed at the North Pole Campground which turned out to be a good campground. It was relatively quiet, bathrooms and showers were clean and they had some trails in the woods you could walk on.  Not much wildlife to speak of aside from the white tail of a deer I saw running away one night. We did see a very unique wood pecker in camp one day.  He had a bright red head and he was big, maybe more than a foot tall. We were also able to walk to a little town beach where they had a band playing one night.

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Wilmington Town Beach Concert

Fort Ticonderoga

While in NY we went to see an old military fort, Fort Ticonderoga.  As you know, history, not my thing, but Tim enjoyed it.  The fort was built by the French on Lake Champlain in the 1750’s, then taken over by the British, eventually lost to the Americans in the Revolutionary War.  In 1777 the Americans were forced to abandon Ticonderoga due to the British threat from above on Mount Defiance, which we did drive up and you can clearly see the advantage the Brits had from the high point.  While we were at Fort Ticonderoga they fired a canon which was cool!

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Fort Ticonderoga seen from Mount Defiance

Signs of Fall

Leaves are starting to change color, it must cool down soon.

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